#5 BELGIUM

Leaving Brittany, Entering Belgium

After leaving St Brieuc in Brittany (NW France) I head north east to Belgium. I stop in Brussels for an overnight stay at a youth Hostel. Even though I would like to see some of the highlights of this fascinating city I have no time. I must hurry on because I am expected at La Ferme du Bois-le-Comte. I have agreed to volunteer at this center for the next month.

It is a place of peace, space, warmth, and lots of pure unspoiled nature. I experience fresh and unpolluted air, clear spring water, fragrant flowers and forests, marvelous star studded night skies and, most of all, heavenly silence. What a lovely change from the hustle and bustle of the cities.

I am looking forward to my time here in this peaceful oasis in the open countryside. Guests come here for classes and instruction in different areas (self-improvement, yoga, spiritual growth, etc.) and the volunteers are here to work in the kitchen and/or garden. All food is fresh, organic and the meals are vegetarian or vegan. I have grown used to eating the vegan way and am very comfortable with it.

I choose to work in the kitchen instead of the garden. Not just because I am interested in the cooking methods . . . because it's just too darn HOT to work in the garden!

Kitchen workers help to prepare the meals, serve them and clean up after them, 3 times a day for anywhere between 25 to 72 guests. And this is done without a lot of the convenience appliances I am used to (such as a dishwasher!)

that's me in the apron

The number of volunteers varies with the number of guests but I find that the average stay for volunteers is 1-2 weeks. Which explains why I get a lot of raised eyebrows when I explain I'm volunteering for a month. I soon find out why.

Up until now my experience with WWOOFing and volunteering has been at places that require working 5-6 hours a day for 5 days a week. Come to find out at THIS center we are expected to work 7 days a week for at least 7 hours a day (which often turns into 9-10 hrs). Then after we've worked 7 days we are allowed one day off. (Lesson #1: always research carefully to determine what days and hours are expected before you commit)

Let me tell you folks, I can't remember when I've ever worked so hard for so many hours. The only saving grace was the fact that I was working with other volunteers that were working as hard as I was and we worked as a team. I met some very fine people there and don't regret the fact that I stuck it out for a month. The friendships I made will last a lifetime.

My first 'free day' finally came around and I headed off into the forest. I had been told about a short-cut through the woods to reach an Abby where the Trappist Monks make their famous Orval Beer and cheesesand I wanted to see the Abbey and the historic ruins around it.

While trekking through the forest I immediately felt the elation of having nothing but nature all around me. It was SO silent. Not even the sound of birds or buzzing insects. If it hadn't been so absolutely beautiful it would have been eerie. I could just hear the slight sound of my own breathing.

I took my time on that hike and stopped often just to experience unspoiled nature. After about 45 minutes I emerged at the Abby and was able to spend some time there in the ruins and museum.

I stopped for a cup of tea at a small cafe on the grounds and then it began to rain. (Lesson #2: always bring an umbrella wherever you go)

The rain came down harder and harder and I had more and more cups of tea to wait it out. Finally it let up enough for me to start walking back into the woods. The trees were thick enough to shelter me from the rain for awhile but when it started to really pour I had to face the fact that I was going to be thoroughly drenched.

Back at the Center there were times when I could grab a few minutes out of the kitchen to interact with the other volunteers or some of the guests. The guests, many non-English speaking, quickly remembered my name when I explained my name was "share-all" and they laughed delightedly.

Despite the language barrier I was able to teach 2 Dutch children the basics of how to play the piano and their father was pleased to hear them 'performing' their little songs after supper each evening.

One of the volunteers had brought her harp with her to practice and we got together for practice sessions after the breakfast dishes were done each morning.

When my time at the Center was finished I was really anxious to go. Even though I thoroughly enjoyed the surroundings and the people, I looked forward to an easier schedule and maybe a little rest.

This came about with an invitation from the harpist - Rita - who was leaving the same time I was. She invited me to stay for a few days at her home in Antwerp, Belgium which was on the way to The Netherlands where I was headed to spend time with my very good friend Rineke and her family. So Rita and I, and my backpack, and my suitcase, and her suitcase, and her HARP all boarded a series of 3 trains that took us to Antwerp. People stepped out of the way when they saw us coming!

Holland will be coming up next . . .

#4 SOUTHERN FRANCE and BRITTANY

Leaving the Chateau in Toulouse, France was a big step for me. I had been there about § weeks and had the company of my daughter and her boyfriend. They were a big help to me in learning the ropes of living, working and traveling abroad.

Backpack on, waiting at the train station


a quick lunch of cheese and bread on the top of my suitcase

miles and miles of bright yellow sunflower fields on the way

My distination was Carcassone in southeastern France. Known for its beautifully preserved midieval castle surrounded by the original town, moat and protective walls.


Slots or slits in the walls from the outside allowed castle defenders to aim their arrows and shoot at the enemy with little chance of being hit by return fire.

The view from inside shows generous room to view and aim for the fellow who's doing the shooting.

The moat is empty now but impressive in its size and paving.

One thing I can say about the French, they love to take their dogs with them wherever they go. Doesn't matter the size, big or little, and I've seen some pretty sizeable mutts. So if you see a Frenchman walking with his head down it's not because he's shy, it's because he's trying not to step in the poo. I'v' noticed they're not big on picking-up after their pets.

I had an enjoyable time at the castle where I stayed in a youth hostel inside the midieval city's walls. My roommates (4 to a room) were 2 young ladies from Canada and one from Korea. I always learn a lot talking to roommates from different countries and they also have a lot of questions for me . . . "you are from Texas, do you know George Bush???"

ON TO BRITTANY

Brittany (or Britania as they call it here) is in the north west part of the country. I decided to do a little couch-surfing and stay with a lovely lady in a town called Saint-Brieuc. It is on the coast of the English Channel and a ferry ride away from England. French is the accepted language and believe me I was immersed in it. My host, Annarita, took me many places including 2 birthday parties. I was drowning in French! Although occasionally they did attempt to use their limited knowledge of English I was always grateful for their efforts. Annarita herself speaks several different languages and I had no trouble conversing with her.

Annarita

the view from my room in her house

SOME FUN AND UNUSUAL OBSERVATIONS

Have you ever seen canary birds that looked like they had mullet haircuts?

And how about this for a Pringles flavor . . .

"Peking Duck with Rice"

my reaction: 'delicious!'

So I come almost halfway around the world and I find a Tex-Mex restaurant.

No, I didn't try it.

And in Brittany it's not KFC it's TFC,

Tennesee Fried Chicken. Not a chain restaurant, I think this fellow was trying to fly on the coattails of Colonal Sanders

TO BE CONTINUED

My access to the internet via WiFi is often very limited in scope and time which is reason for the long delays in blog entries. (besides the fact that it takes quite awhile to put them together).

I thank you for your patience!

#3 Getting Used to New Things

A few notes on 'unusual things' and an enjoyable trip to ancient walled cities

There are new and different things everywhere when you are in a foreign country.

Like here in France when you are introduced to someone or if you come upon a previously introduced friend, you are expected to kiss them on both cheeks - at the same time they are kissing you on both cheeks. It felt a little awkward at first but before long it just became the 'proper thing to do'.

People from different countries, even though they speak English, can have a different way of saying things. Like the English ladies I know, instead of saying the time is "two thirty", they say "half-two" (pronounced 'hof tew').

You wouldn't think anyone would rearrange the letters on a typing keyboard but they're different in France. Among other things, their 'A' is where our 'Q' is, their 'W' is where our 'Z' is and if you want to type numbers you have to shift to upper case. So any speed I've managed to build up on our standard QWERTY keyboard is lost to all the corrections I have to go back and make.

Men carry purses here. Not the fancy flashy fashion purses that women carry - they are more like a smaller version of a briefcase. Personally, I think the 'man-purse' is a good idea.

Yes there are McDonalds here in the larger cities. However, have you ever seen chocolate pudding, orange muffins, a slice of fresh pineapple or McCrisp (something that looks like a pile of chocolate covered corn flakes) on the dessert menu? French McDonalds have it. Besides the regular French Fries they have 'delux fries' which are potato wedges.

In the grocery stores there is sugar named "Daddy"

and there are vacuum cleaners named "Henry"

A SUNDAY DRIVE

Recently we were invited on a drive and picnic. Myself, Christine and Jonathan were picked up at the Chateau by friends Sonia and John. The day was spent exploring ancient midieval walled cities in the mountains and hills north of Albi around St Antonin-val. Some castles were more in ruins than others. But in all the useable buildings modern-day people are still living and proudly making them their homes. We picnic'd on the side of the Aveyron river and watched the kayak-ers and canoers float by.

Innovative use of a small discarded microwave oven - it's now a mailbox!

A castle precariously clinging to the top of a hill

A hamlet across the valley

No doubt this same hamlet was viewed centries ago by those living in the castle's walled city and looked much the same as it does today.

Festivities at the nearby town, lots of goodies and a welcome chance to rest at an outdoor cafe.

MOVING ON

Christine left for Berlin on July 15 to attend 'LadyFest' on her own. I said goodbye to all at the Chateau on July 16 to go to a retreat community in the mid-Pyrenees near Carassonne. And Jonathan left the Chateau on July 20 to meet up with Christine in Paris.

So we are all traveling once again. Christine and Jonathan plan to go on to Ireland. My plans will take me to Brittany next, and then on to Belgium.

I'll keep you posted!

#2 A DAY IN THE LIFE of a WWOOFer

Enjoying nature on a morning walk

A WOOFer is a person that exchanges work on an organic farm for room and board. No money is exchanged and the worker is expected to work 5 hours a day, 5 days a week. Not an overly demanding schedule at all. All the rest of the time is free time to spend as you wish.

Daily Schedule

Breakfast is at 8am and usually consists of cereal, toast, fruit or anything you can find in the cupboards or refrigerator. It's pretty much self-serve.

Work starts at 9am and there is a roster that is posted so you know what your assignment is for the day.

New Zeland girls in the kitchen


Work begins at 9am sharp. It could be indoor or outdoor work. Types of work: garden (weeding, picking fruits or vegetables, watering, potting seedlings, etc); Painting inside or out - walls, shutters, windows, doors; helping with construction/renovation inside or out; cooking or baking; washing and hanging out clothes (no dryers, all the towels are stiff and scratchy- but highly absorbent!); and many other odd jobs that come up.



Lately I have found a niche as a sign-painter.






The owners being staunch English have everyone break for TEA at 11:00. After tea and biscuits (cookies) it's back to work.


At 1:00 the lunch bell is rung and the largest meal of the day, is served.

Meals are prepared by teams of 2 workers on a rotating schedule and when you are
assigned a meal to prepare it includes planning the menu, cooking, setting the table and
cleaning up afterwards.

Vegetarian pizza

I've prepared several meals in tandem with other workers, once it was vegetarian pizza - ALL meals are either vegetarian (no meat) or vegan (no meat, milk, eggs, cheese, or dairy of any kind). Lately we've had a bumper crop of zucchini and it appears in many different forms in most of our meals. Another time I cooked up some corn fritters - they didn't know what they were but they sure did like them!


After lunch we have free time until about 2 or 2:30, then it's back to work until we've accomplished our 5 hrs for the day. We are in charge of our own hours as long as we get 25 hours of work done for the week. We can do more hours in a day which would allow us to have more free time on another day if we wish.


Supper is at 7: or 7:30 and after the meal the evening is often filled with game playing which is loads of fun.


Right now the woofers that are here include myself, Christine (my daughter), Jonathan,
3 girls from New Zeland, and one girl from Canada.
The usual length of stay for a woofer at any one place is 2-4 weeks.



Le Chateau Brametourte

(view from the NW side)

view from the window in my room

Even when it's hot outside it's always cool inside the chateau, the walls are at least 3 ft thick. There are windows with bars, stained glass windows and some simple slits used to shoot arrows out of in centuries past when the chateau was being attacked. Many of the windows that are made up of small squares of glass have some of the original glass. You can tell the older glass because when you look through it the view is wavy, not clear. It's like looking through the glass into the past.


You can see that the steps on the staircases are worn down on one side from centuries of people walking up and down them.
This is a picture looking down a steep 'secret' staircase . . . it's very narrow and difficult to maneuver, scary too!


Must go now and enjoy one of our spectacular sunsets . . .

#1 ON MY WAY!

I'm taking some time off to go on an adventure. I'll don a backpack and head for Europe, starting in France I'll WOOF* my way around.

*WWOOFers (Willing Workers On Organic Farms) exchange
work for room and board at organic farms around the world.

I left Texas the first part of June to fly to Toulouse, France where my daughter and her fiance are managing the gardens at a place called Brametourte. They have been there since March and have already accomplished quite a bit.

A joyful reunion at the airport was followed by a leisurely drive in a borrowed car to look over the countryside. After enjoying a cup of tea at a roadside cafe in the hills, we arrived at the chateau. And what an impressive place it is!

There are 30 rooms most of them enormous, with huge fireplaces. It dates back to the 11th century and has been the home of numerous royal figures. It also housed the family of Henri Tulous Lautrec the famous painter. It's presently being rebuilt and refurbished by an English couple who bought it with the aim of creating the only fully self-sustained Bed & Breakfast in France. It has a water reclamation system, and extensive gardens full of all kinds of vegetables, and fruit and nut trees. Almost all waste is recycled: glass, cans, plastic, paper . . . and garbage is deposited in the compost bin.

No grocery store needed here! In the morning gather eggs from the henhouse for breakfast . . . pick several kinds of lettuce and greens for a salad at lunch . . . fresh herbs and spices are readily available for cooking supper . . plenty of fruit trees and bushes for making sweet desserts.





Fresh eggs!

Trees loaded with cherries

We are far out in the countryside and the nearest little town is about an hour walk away. The view of the surrounding countryside (we are up on a knoll) is calm, serene, and breathtakingly beautiful. The air is crisp, clean and an occasional rain refreshes everything. The Springtime is the perfect season to arrive here. Now I am told we will be going into the hot summer months. I'm fairly smug about it because I am a veteran of Texas summers and there aren't too many hotter than that. However, this time I won't have air conditioning to escape to for relief!

I will have pictures and descriptions of this castle I live in and a typical day's schedule next time.